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Ramayana and Sri Lanka

THE RAMAYANA

For over thousands of years, the Ramayana, epic of Asia, has had an unshakeable hold on the beliefs of vast multitudes of Asia's teeming millions. As diverse span of humanity as Kashmiri pandits and Cambodian fishermen, it is the universal heritage of all humanity.

Emerging from the mists of the forested banks of India's northernmost rivers, the crown jewel of a rich oral tradition, the song of Valmiki has become a pillar of principles, a symbol of the victory of good over evil, and a metaphor for the battle between the forces of light and darkness within every human soul.

The legend of Rama, Prince of Ayodhya, where the darkly handsome prince in exile, unswervingly confronts and overcomes fearsome odds in the form of the mightiest demon-king of his time and the heartbreaking injustices of court intrigues, with equanimity and generosity in thought and action, has also left behind a rich legacy of sites and temples in the country where the most significant events of this epic took place - Lankapura - Sri Lanka.



SRI LANKA'S RICH RAMAYANA HERITAGE
Sri Lanka is the proud custodian of more than 50 Ramayana sites from the place of Seetha Devi's captivity to the battlefields where vast armies clashed, to the groves of exotic herbs dropped by the monkey god Hanuman, to the ultimate theatre of war where Lord Rama slew Ravana, the ten-headed demon-king.

People living in the areas where great events took place, remember to this day the connection of their soil to the great epic. An oath taken at the spot where Seetha Devi undertook 'Agni Pariksha' is still considered valid in village courts or grama sabhas. The colour of the soil of the ancient battlefield is still red today, and is still surrounded by lighter coloured earth. One of the airports of Ravana, torched by Hanuman when he came looking for Seetha Devi, still has a scorched-earth look. A patch of darker soil surrounded by brown earth. Exotic alpine Himalayan species are found suddenly amidst tropical Sri Lankan vegetation, the legacy of Hanuman's heroic voyage carrying a mountain with life-restoring herbs.

Incredibly, the names of places have come down to modern times unchanged. Though great social, cultural and religious changes have taken place in Sri Lanka since.

On the following pages, you will see Sri Lankan glimpses of this legacy and a glorious age whose events define and guide us to this day.



Seetha Kotuwa
Location: Gurulupotha - Hasalaka

Legend: These jungles are the place where the city of Lankapura once stood. The city had a beautiful palace for queen Mandothari surrounded by waterfalls, streams and varieties of flora and fauna. Seetha Devi was kept in this palace until she was moved to Ashoka Vatika. Seetha Kotuwa means Seetha's fort and got its name because of Seetha Devi's stay here.

Distance from Colombo 190 km



The Chariot Path and Seetha Tear pond
Location: The jungle on the top of Ramboda Hills, on the Kandy - Gampola - Nuwara-Eliya Road.

Legend: The barren land here is believed to be the route along which Ravana took Seetha Devi from his capital city Lankapura to Ashoka Vatika, to show her the beauty of his kingdom which was a paradise on earth. To date no vegetation grows on this passage except grass.

Distance from Colombo 160 km



Seetha Amman Temple
Location: Seetha Eliya on Nuwara-Eliya - Welimada Road

Legend: A temple for Lord Rama, Seetha Devi, Luxshmana and Hanuman built on the sides of the stream where Seetha Devi bathed.

Distance from Colombo 195 km



Ussangoda
Location: This is situated in the Southern Coast between Ambalantota and Tangalle.

Legend: According to Ramayana, after meeting Seetha Devi Lord Hanuman decided to test the strength of the mighty King Ravana and his army of Rakshasas. In the event that unfolded Lord Hanuman's tail was set on fire by the Rakshasas,who in turn went on to torch some parts of King Ravana's empire. Ussangoda is one of the torched areas, which is said to have been an airport used by King Ravana.

Distance from Colombo 225 km



Ishtripura / Konda Kattu Gala
Location: This is situated in the Welimada Area
Legend: Ishtripura means an area of women in Sinhala. This was one of the places to which King Ravana shifted Seetha Devi as a precautionary measure, which he was forced to take by Lord Hanuman's advent.

Seetha Devi took a bath in the stream close by and had dried her hair sitting on a rock and put clips to her hair, hence this rock is known as Konda Kattu Gala.

Distance from Colombo 230 km



Ravana Cave
Location: From Bandarawela pass Ella to Ravana Cave

Legend: These tunnels prove beyond doubt the architectural brilliance of King Ravana. The tunnels served as a quick means of transport through the hills and also as a secret passage. They networked all the important cities, airports and dairy farms. A close look at these tunnels indicates that they are man-made and not natural formations.

Existing tunnel mouths are also situated at Ishtripura in Welimada, Senapitiya in Halagala, Ramboda, Labookelle, Wariyapola in Matale, and Seetha Kotuwa in Hasalaka and in many more places.

Distance from Colombo 220 km



Yudhaganawa
Location: Situated in the midst of the jungle Wasgamuwa

Legend: It is said that this particular piece of land can never bear any vegetation as this served as the battlefield and had borne the brunt of destruction.

Distance from Colombo 240 km



Dunuwila
Location: In the Matale District on the outskirts of Wasgamuwa National Park

Legend: Dunuwila is the place from where Lord Rama fired the brahmaastharam at King Ravana, which eventually killed him. Dhunu means arrow and wila means lake. This place got its name because Lord Rama fired his arrow from this lake.

Distance from Colombo 240 km



Rumassala Sanjeevani Drops
Location: Unawatuna, Galle

Legend: At different points of time during the war both Lord Rama and Luxshmana were hit by powerful arrows, fell unconscious and to bring them back to life Lord Hanuman was instructed to fetch the life saving herbs from Himalaya. Hanuman went to the hill, lifted the whole hill and brought it, as he was not able to remember and identify the life saving herbs alone. Parts from the hill fell on five places in Sri Lanka, namely, Rumassala in Galle, Dolu Kanda in Hiripitiya, Ritigala on the Habarana - Anuradhapura Road, Thalladi in Mannar and Kachchativu in the north.

Distance from Colombo 125 km



Divurumpola
Location: It is situated 15 km from Seetha Eliya on Nuwara-Eliya - Welimada Road.

Legend: This is the place where Seetha Devi underwent "Agni Pariksha" (test). It is a popular place of worship among locals in this area. Divurumpola means place of oath in Sinhala. The legal system permits and accepts the swearing done at this temple while settling disputes between parties.

Distance from Colombo 210 km



Muneshwaram
Location: About 5 km from Chilaw Town

Legend: Lord Rama after his victorious battle left for Ayodhya in one of King Ravana's Vimanas. He felt he was being followed by Bramahathi Dosham as he killed King Ravana who was a Brahmin. He stopped the Vimana at this juncture because he felt at this place the "Bramahathi Dosham" was not following him. He discended from the Vimana and asked God Shiva for a remedy. God Shiva blessed Lord Rama and advised him to install and pray four lingams in Manavari, Thirukoneshwaram, Thiruketheeswaram and Rameshwaram in India, as the only remedy to get rid of the Dosham.

Distance from Colombo 85 km

visit Sri Lanka

An eco-hotel in Sri Lanka

It’s a nerve-wracking business, deciding what book to pack when travelling. The wrong novel in the wrong place can be a disaster, ruining either the holiday or the book – as I once discovered when I tried, and failed, to immerse myself in the snowy battlefields of War and Peace when baking on a beach in Greece.

It was by chance that I happened to be reading JG Ballard’s The Drowned World while travelling in Sri Lanka. Ballard, who died in April, is known for his novels depicting apocalyptic futures. That of The Drowned World is particularly nightmarish. Temperatures and sea levels have risen, and the few surviving humans, including the main character, Kerans, eke out a precarious existence in the penthouse suites of submerged hotels. Rendered almost catatonic by the heat, they are watched by packs of hungry reptiles – giant iguanas, monitor lizards, alligators and sea-snakes in salty lagoons – while an omnivorous jungle encroaches through windows shorn of their glass.

With this as yet unopened book in my bag, I blithely checked into the Heritance Kandalama in central Sri Lanka, the wondrous eco-hotel designed by the country’s best-loved architect, the late Geoffrey Bawa. A pioneering work of green architecture, the Kandalama is designed to merge with the landscape and rejects the usual segregation of inside and outside. Built into a dramatic outcrop of gneiss and surrounded by lush jungle and a large lake, it is a deeply sensuous place. Real boulders burst through the simple geometry of its walls, and the serpentine corridors are open to the breeze and the birds. Guests are encouraged to imitate the staff and walk barefoot on the soft, polished cement – either warm or cool depending on the time of day. Every so often on your travels you arrive at an exquisitely framed view, a Bawa trademark, with a table and chair positioned just so before it. The day begins and ends with a chorus of shrieks, beeps, croaks and hoots from the jungle, and there is little to do in between but sit by the turquoise infinity pool and let the heat and a Lion lager induce a state of lethargy.

Which is what I was doing when I opened The Drowned World. It turned my experience of the hotel on its head.

Beyond the pool, the vast and silent grey-blue lake was every bit as eerie as Ballard’s saltwater lagoons, and no doubt harboured similarly predatory reptiles. What’s more, bare, forked branches of dead trees stuck out of it, and birds of prey circled overhead. And then there was the hotel itself, so engulfed by jungle that it was impossible to tell where one ended and the other began: stringy vines dangled between each floor; grasses and succulents sprouted from the roof. Screeching monkeys ran amok.

The sun pounding the back of my head, I was projected a century into the future: mankind had been wiped out, and the hotel was a beautiful, terrible reminder of a lost civilisation, the jungle well advanced in its bid for repossession.

It was somewhat ironic, therefore, to discover that the Kandalama was doing everything it could to avert such an apocalyptic scenario. Guests are encouraged to relax in their Jacuzzis (there is one in every room) knowing that their dirty bath water will go on to irrigate the roof garden.

Since it first opened in 1994, the hotel has received a host of Green Globe awards, and embraced the “3 Rs” principle of “reduce, re-use and recycle”. Bawa did, in fact, design the hotel with the idea that the jungle would one day close over it.

This did nothing to dispel the disconcerting sense that I had slipped into the drowned world of Ballard’s book, however. Just as the novel’s characters are prone to heat-induced hallucinations and struggle to tell dreams from reality, I found myself strangely disorientated by the Kandalama. You arrive at what you believe to be the ground floor only to discover that it is the fifth, with several floors below you, down among dangling tap roots and dripping rocks. I spent a demented hour searching for an Olympic-sized swimming pool I had glimpsed from higher up, eventually concluding I’d imagined it (I found it the next day). And just as the inhabitants of Ballard’s drowned city are marooned in their high-rises, I soon became marooned in mine. Looking down on the canopy of the jungle from my balcony (on the ground floor, which is also the fifth), I couldn’t wait to go out walking. But my attempts to actually get to the jungle were constantly frustrated. Painted white footprints guided me gently but firmly back in a circle; when I ignored them, signs forbade me from going further without a guide. Imprisoned on my balcony, I resigned myself to listening to the ominous sound of branches being crushed underfoot, slowly and rhythmically, as some mammoth creature – an elephant, or a giant Ballardesque iguana – passed invisibly beneath.

What eventually poses the greatest threat to Kerans in The Drowned World is not the predatory reptiles, but other humans – namely the crazy Strangman and his thuggish entourage, who torture him and leave him for dead. When I heard that the hotel was expecting several government ministers for a political conference, I got nervous. The militant Tamil Tigers had been active in the preceding weeks. Surely the conference would make the Kandalama a target? I decided that the sensible thing to do was to leave the hotel for the day.

So it was that I spent peaceful hours gazing at great golden buddhas reclining in caves near Dambulla, 13km away. I forgot about Ballard, the heat, the lake – even the sun-dried corpse of a large, grinning monitor lizard I had stumbled upon in the hotel’s eco museum. By the time I got back to Kandalama, the politicians had gone.

A week to the day after my visit to the golden buddhas, I was listening to the radio in my kitchen in England when I heard the news: a bomb had exploded on a bus in Dambulla, killing 20 people and wounding dozens more. I sat down, shocked and tearful, as you are when you realise how close to danger you have come, and how others weren’t so lucky. It was only then, the powerful mood of the Ballard novel no longer exerting its hold, that I began to reconsider my stay in Sri Lanka.

Of all the places I had been, the Kandalama emerged as the refuge, exactly as Bawa had designed it to be – not a place where I was held captive, but a place where I had been allowed to experience the beauty of the virgin jungle without being allowed to damage it. It was the jungle that had needed protecting; the most threatening presence at the Kandalama had perhaps been me.

visit Sri Lanka: Sun, Sea and Sand

Sun, Sea and Sand

Sun, Sea and Sand

Toes curling into fine sand.
The aquamarine blue waves of the Indian Ocean gently unfolding on the golden shore.
A fresh coconut sipped in the shade of wind-whispering palms.
A (not-too-long) bask in the early morning or late afternoon sun.
A cool-off in the vast expanse of sun-glittering sea.

Some of the delights of a Sri Lankan beach.
Where beaches are concerned you will be spoilt for choice in Sri Lanka. Beaches totalling 1,340km fringe the island, from the long-established tourist destinations of the southern coast, to the vast beaches of the deep south, and the less-visited expanses of the north and east. No matter what time of the year, you can find a beach that is in season and just waiting to welcome you to its warm sands.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_beaches_in_Sri_Lanka

Fathoming the Indian Ocean
A tropical climate, white sandy beaches and the tempting warmth of the water are, of course, what mainly bring tourists to Sri Lanka. So the Indian Ocean is a key element in the island’s tourism.

Sri Lanka has 1,330km of coastline, where the white or yellowish margin of sand follows the coast often for kilometres, like a narrow gleaming satin ribbon, bending with its multifarious curves and beautiful open bays, and dividing the deep blue waters of the Indian Ocean from the bright green coconut grove.

The Indian Ocean is the world’s third largest. Occupying an area of 73.6 million square kilometres between Africa, Asia, Australia and Antarctica, and amounting to approximately 20% of the earth’s water surface, the Indian Ocean includes the Red Sea, the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal, the Persian Gulf, the Strait of Malacca, and the Mozambique Channel. The Palk Strait between Sri Lanka and India is one of the ocean’s shallowest parts.

The Indian Ocean is affected by the north-east monsoon from December until April and the south-west monsoon from June to October, giving Sri Lanka two tourist seasons, one on the west coast and the other on the east coast. During monsoon time, when visibility is often reduced to 60m, the sea is usually rough. Sometimes the colour of the ocean changes from its recognizable turquoise to a bottle green and navy blue, depending on the intensity of the clouds above. When the sunshine breaks out, azure tones appear as the angry clouds chase over the sea making it a patchwork quilt of colour. In season, though, the sea is bright blue and crystal clear.

A wide coral reef largely surrounds Sri Lanka’s coastline making it ideal for diving. An underwater journey into the Indian Ocean rewards you with glimpses of a totally different world, full of astounding colour and life. Home to a variety of tropical fish and coral reefs, the ocean waters also lay claim to some historic wrecks that offer exploration opportunities. The more laid-back activity of snorkelling is a popular past-time in many southern coastal areas, particularly the Hikkaduwa Marine Sanctuary, and on the east coast around Pigeon Island off Nilaveli, near Trincomalee. Marine life to be seen includes big fish such as barracuda, whale shark, tuna as well as four species of turtle.

The gentle swell of the Indian Ocean waves offer great opportunities for surfing. There are first-class waves in Arugam Bay on the east coast, and along the south coast at Hikkaduwa and Mirissa. However, in other places the calm water of the Indian Ocean just laps onto the sandy shore, such as at Unawatuna, near Galle, and Nilaveli, making them safe for swimming and especially good for families with young children.

Wind-surfing can be enjoyed at many places along the coastline from Negombo to Tangalle. Bentota is the unofficial water-sports capital of the island because aside from its rolling surf and beautiful sandy beaches, it also has a river where beginners can gain experience before heading into the ocean. Trincomalee on the east coast offers a fantastic alternative for wind-surfers when the south-west monsoon brings strong winds and rough seas.

In Negombo and Hikkaduwa, the increasingly popular thrill-seeking sports of wake-boarding and kite-surfing are beginning to take off.

Finally, please remember to respect the Indian Ocean at all times. Always beware of the strong currents that often run parallel to the coast. Newcomers to the island should remember that it is rare to find a lifeguard at the beach in Sri Lanka or any flags indicating safe places for swimming. Less confident swimmers should ask a local for their advice or just test the waters carefully and make sure someone knows you have gone out for a swim or dive.

West Coast Beaches (North to South)
Negombo (35km north of Colombo)
Negombo, “The Village of Honey”, is Sri Lanka’s oldest beach resort, just 6km from Bandaranaike International Airport and therefore popular for stays on arrival or before departure from the island. Famous in the 18th century for the cultivation of some of the best cinnamon in the world, Negombo is now one of the island’s most important fishing ports. The catamaran-type fishing craft, called oruwas, fitted with their large sails, characterize Negombo. On their return from fishing their trademark creamy-brown sails dot the horizon, becoming bigger as they make their way to the shore. You can even arrange to go out in one or, at least inspect its meticulous and clever design

The main tourist resort of Negombo is situated just north of the town. It has a long, often wide, picturesque stretch of sandy bay with numerous attractions both on land and water, and a string of well-established hotels. There is plenty to do apart from swimming and sunbathing as windsurfing, diving, and even kite surfing have become popular sports here.

Negombo is a centre for Roman Catholicism (its nickname is “Little Rome”) and so the town is dominated by beautiful shrines and churches. The biggest is the impressive, candy-coloured church of St Mary’s, built over a period of 50 years from 1874, which exhibits some amazing ceiling paintings.

While each church in Negombo celebrates its own patron saint’s feast day, the small island of Duwa (separated from the southern end of town by the lagoon) stages passion plays at Easter with puppetry and theatre that usually involve the whole village – a great event to witness.

The waterways surrounding Negombo offer the opportunity to explore the area. The Dutch Canal – also called the Hamilton Canal – runs south to Colombo and north to Puttalam. It was designed especially to transport spices such as cinnamon. You can enjoy peaceful boat trips observing local life and appreciating the wildlife as you glide by.

The Negombo Lagoon – a great expanse of water usually visible from your plane window as you land or take off – is famed for the quality of its prawns and crab. It joins the Indian Ocean to the north, and to the south weaves into the estuaries and waterways of the Muthurajawela Marsh – a mangrove-studded wetland 15km south of Negombo that makes for a great excursion.

Mount Lavinia (12km south of Colombo)
Mount Lavinia is a suburb of Colombo that possesses the nearest beach to the city centre, and is therefore especially convenient for those who are confined to Colombo for part or all of their stay. The beach is adjacent to a headland that juts into the Indian Ocean, atop which is the famous colonial-era Mount Lavinia Hotel. Considering its proximity to the hustle and bustle of Colombo the beach is pleasant enough, and enjoys a quiet atmosphere. There are several beachside restaurants and bars. The sea is usually safe for swimming, but can be rough and you need to be wary of the strong undercurrents typical of this coast.

There are two theories as to the origin of the Westernized name. Governor General Sir Thomas Maitland had built a mansion there in 1805 (now part of the Mount Lavinia Hotel) and had fallen in love with a beautiful low caste dancing girl called Lovina, who was discreetly smuggled into the mansion through a tunnel. But perhaps it’s a corruption of an old name, Lihiniyagala – “rock” or “cliff of the birds”.

If you stay in Mount Lavina there are several nearby attractions. The closest is the National Zoological Gardens at Dehiwela, better-known as the Dehiwela Zoo, one of the largest in Southeast Asia. The zoo and its gardens are best experienced early morning as soon as the zoo opens (8am – 6pm everyday). The animals - some 350 species - are naturally more active at this time, going through feeding and cleaning rituals, it is cooler, and the crowds wouldn’t have arrived as yet. Bear in mind the zoo tends to get overcrowded at weekends.

Though the zoo was a pioneer of the open plan concept, this is yet to be implemented throughout the zoo, so bars and cages are still to be found, but enclosures like the lion and gibbon islands are a fascinating place to watch the animals in their simulated surroundings.

The elephant show - which is still a major attraction - has yet to be discontinued, even though it is unnatural and demeaning. However, these days it is preceded by a talk on conservation and human-elephant conflict.

A few kilometres inlaid with a grand extent of 37,400 hectares, stretches Bolgoda Lake. Sri Lanka’s largest natural water basin and greatest freshwater pool. Up to 45 fish species have been identified, five of which are endemic and 160 bird species (mostly migrants and waterfowl) prowl and flit along the lakeshore. The flora biodiversity is equally rich, including aquatic, semi-aquatic and terrestrial plants – grasses, trees and water pants – and, of course, dense mangrove.

Kalutara (42km south of Colombo)
Kalutara is the first town outside the Colombo conurbation as you travel south on the coastal Galle Road. When you approach the town from Colombo the striking dagoba of Gangatilaka Vihara, Kalutara’s dominant landmark, looms as you traverse a bridge that spans Sri Lanka’s fourth largest river, the Kalu Ganga (“black river”) - from which the town gets its name – before it enters the sea.

North of this bridge, all the way to Wadduwa (8km), extends a fine catamaran-scattered beach, often deserted, which is ideal for quick dips and long sunset strolls. There are some top-end resort hotels bordering the beach, but there’s not much of an option for budget travellers.
Kalutara was a vital spice-trading centre for the Portuguese, Dutch and British. Although there are few visible remains of the Dutch fort, the Dutch canals that linked the spice plantations – transformed into rubber estates under the British – are reminders of Kalutara’s colonial past. Furthermore, a tour of Kalutara’s back streets provides glimpses of houses of Dutch origin hidden behind walls and shaded by large trees.

The large dagoba of the Gangatilaka Vihara isn’t old – it was built in the 1960s – but its hollow interior is the only one of its kind in the world. Inside its cavernous interior there is a mini-dagoba surrounded on four sides by golden Buddhas. Around the edge are painted 72 images of the previous births of the Buddha-to-be. The narrow windows below these paintings afford 360-degree panoramic views over the river and into town.

Kalutara is famous for its mangosteens, which are sold when ripe from May to July in stalls along the roadside. And Kalutara is one of the country’s most successful rubber producing districts. Travelling a few kilometres inland from Kalutara reveals the silvery trunks of the rubber trees while a visit to a factory will show you how the latex is made into sheets of rubber.

Kalutara is associated with two remarkable Victorian women. Julia Margaret Cameron, one of the first portrait photographers who pioneered soft focus, was a resident. She began photography in 1863, at 48, yet soon became a central figure in this new medium and had photographed famous personalities such as Charles Darwin. She also took historically important portraits of Kalutara women, which hang at the National Portrait Gallery, London. In 1877, Marianne North, one of the greatest botanical artists, stayed with Cameron. Her paintings, which include a view of the Kalu Ganga from the Cameron’s verandah, can be seen at Kew Gardens, London.

Bentota (62km south of Colombo)
Bentota combines a number of package resorts plus an excellent selection of upmarket hotels and the National Tourist Resort, which comprises a shopping centre, post office and a market. The town has long been a tourist haven, for in the 19th century, when Galle was the island’s main port, those proceeding to Colombo in stagecoaches stopped here at the rest-house (long gone) and indulged in local oysters!

Bentota is Sri Lanka’s water-sports centre. The sea here is calm and an excellent diving location. The beach divides into two, the north end comprising a spit of land – dubbed “Paradise Island” - dividing the waves of the Indian Ocean from the still waters of the Bentota Lagoon, while the more pleasing southern end comprises an attractive swathe of wide sandy beach where some of the island’s best upmarket hotels are located. Surprisingly, although Bentota is one of the island’s most popular resorts, the beach is relatively quiet.

The Bentota Lagoon offers a wide range of water-sports such as wind-surfing, water-skiing, canoeing, banana-boating and deep-sea fishing. In addition, the Bentota Ganga (river) has been an important tourist attraction since the 19th century. Boat safaris up the beautiful river provide an ideal opportunity to observe a variety of fauna – from herons to crocodiles - associated with a wetland environment.

You can also explore the remains of the Galapata Vihara, built in the 12th century, which has interesting wall paintings, Buddha statues, and a large rock that has an extract from the chronicle, the Mahavamsa, carved on it.

About 3km south of Bentota is a turtle hatchery, where eggs bought from fishermen are buried. When they hatch the baby turtles are kept in tanks for a few days before being released into the sea...

Ambalangoda (Approx 85km south of Colombo)
Ambalangoda doesn’t have the beauty of Bentota, or the vibe of Hikkaduwa. But it does have a popular artistic tradition of much interest to tourists. Furthermore, Ambalangoda possesses a long stretch of wild beach you can explore all to yourself, giving you a feeling of seclusion hard to find on this coast.

The beach is, thankfully, a good distance from the main road and packed with catamarans and fishing boats. For this reason the beach in town is not so suitable sunbathing as Hikkaduwa or Unawatuna further south. Instead it is great for exploring and witnessing Sri Lankan daily life.

However, both beaches at the extreme southern and northern ends of town are picturesque, great for walking and nearly always empty, though perhaps a little close to the main road. As a rule, be wary and follow the local advice about where to swim, as there can be dangerous currents.

Ambalangoda is well-known for mask-making and as a centre for south coast traditional dancing. Masks are made for three types of dancing rituals: kolam, which tell satirical stories of traditional Sri Lankan colonial life, sanni, or devil dancing masks, used in an exorcism ceremony to heal people of persisting ailments believed inflicted by demons, and raksha masks, used in festivals and processions. Now they have become more important as one of Sri Lanka’s most sought-after souvenir, and the streets of Ambalangoda are lined with shops from which leer these sometimes demonic-looking but somehow attractive creations.

Seven kilometres inland is south Asia’s longest (35m) reclining Buddha statue, located at the Sailatalaramaya Vihara. At Balapitiya, five kilometres from Ambalangoda, boat trips can be taken up the Madu Ganga (river). This shallow body of water, its estuary and islets, make up the complex coastal ecosystem of the Madu Ganga Wetlands, declared a Ramsar Site in 2003. Possibly the last remaining area of pristine mangrove forest in Sri Lanka, it is home to 303 species of plants and 248 vertebrate animals including many bird species.

The village of Meetiyagoda near Ambalangoda is the only place in Sri Lanka where the gem, the moonstone, is found. You can visit the narrow, deep shafts from which it is mined, or at least gaze down them. Moonstone carries a sheen, seen on the surface of the stone from certain angles. It is like a floating light, the finest of which is bluish in colour.

Hikkaduwa (98km south of Colombo)
There is only one town that can boast of some of the best surfing waves in Sri Lanka, a long stretch of beach packed with restaurants serving fresh seafood, an equally long stretch of souvenir shops for the serious shopper, and guesthouses and hotels galore, from the cheap and cheerful to star-class. The name of the place is Hikkaduwa, and there is no other resort on the island like it.

The foreign influx began in the mid-19th century, when ‘picnic parties’ were regularly held here and it became a stopping place for the Galle to Colombo stagecoach. The second influx came in the 1960s, when American and Australian surfers discovered the waves here and at Arugam Bay on the east coast. Soon the town became a surfing paradise, attracting not only surfers but fun-seeking visitors of all types.

The best period for surfing is November to April, as it is for diving and snorkelling, for the visibility is good. There are a number of excellent wreck dives, including the Shell-owned SS Conch, the world’s first oil tanker, sunk in 1903. The Hikkaduwa Marine Sanctuary, established in 1988, ensures the underwater world is accessible to all whether they can dive or not. Snorkelling in the shallow waters 200m off shore is possible, and although the corals are dead in places you still come across a number of brightly-coloured fish as you float a few metres above. The less adventurous can always take a glass-bottomed boat ride, though this is environmentally questionable

Clothes are tailored here to western tastes and in western sizes. Jewellery is of the more understated silver type with beautiful semi-precious stones. There are dozens of souvenir shops with items such as masks, puppets, musical instruments, batiks and paintings.

There a several places of interest to visit in the area around Hikkaduwa. The Gangarama Maha Viharaya is filled with the lifetime work of one artist depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha. The Dodanduwa Lagoon and Telwatte Bird Sanctuary provide a wealth of fauna, flora and spectacular scenery. And only 9km inland from Hikkaduwa you are already entering the totally different world of tea plantations.

Unawatuna (140 km south-east of Colombo)
Unawatuna is a fishing village blessed with a beautiful sandy bay fringed with palm trees. Science-fiction author Arthur C Clarke was so enchanted by the “exquisite arc of beach,” that he once made it his second home. To many visitors, Unawatuna is simply Sri Lanka’s best, a view endorsed by the Discovery Channel, which has rated the beach one of the ten best in the world.

Unawatuna is protected by a double reef and is therefore one of the safest beaches in Sri Lanka for swimming. You can snorkel in the clear blue waters of the bay. It is a great place for surfing and diving. Or you can go fishing or snorkelling out to sea by using the traditional catamarans dotting the beach.

Many restaurants line the whole curve of beach with sun beds enticingly placed outside. Because there are no big hotel complexes here, and no busy road, it is a favourite of tourists staying a few months. With welcoming villagers and an unforgettable ambience, it is easy to see why.

A charming legend concerns Unawatuna and the prominence called Rumassala Kanda at the west end of the bay. In the epic Indian poem, the Ramayana, which is partly set in Sri Lanka, Hanuman, the monkey god, was sent to the Himalayas to find some special medicinal herbs. But Hanuman forgot which herbs he needed and in desperation took with him, twisted in his tail, a chunk of the mountains. On his way back he dropped a piece at Unawatuna forming this hillock. That’s why the village name means “fell down”.

Rumassala Kanda, well worth exploring, has a great variety of unusual vegetation and protected medicinal herbs not found anywhere else in the area, making this story seem mysteriously possible.

Unawatuna is the ideal place to relax and unwind. As importantly, however, it is well-placed to allow you to easily explore the surrounding area. For an alternative beach, for instance, try Dalawella, just 2.5km from Unawatuna, which is unspoilt – it’s narrow but great for bathing and safe for children.

At Kottawa Rainforest and Arboretum, only 45 minutes from Unawatuna, you can experience a rainforest environment. Most importantly, the remarkable Dutch fort of Galle - one of Sri Lanka’s seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites and considered the best-preserved fortifications in South Asia - is just 5km north of Unawatuna. And remember that if you are a cricket fan, Galle has an International Cricket Stadium where test matches are played.

Weligama (143km south-east of Colombo)
Weligama possesses an expansive, all-embracing bay that welcomes long frothing rollers which spill onto the barrel-chest of a beach. An afternoon stroll the length of the bay to enjoy the panoramic vista while taking in the buzz of fishing activity is very enjoyable. The eastern end is a strategic place to be at sunset, the place the bay where the waves roll in to provide great opportunity for surfers. This is where the bulk of guesthouses are situated. At the western end, with islands just offshore, the water in season is miraculously still, calm and as blue as a Sri Lankan sapphire.

Weligama means “Sandy Village”, though it is also referred to as ‘Red Bay’ due to its rose-red cliffs. These red cliffs and rose-tinged islands do indeed characterize Weligama and can be viewed as far as the eye can see. Another famous aspect is stunning Taprobane Island, in wading distance from the shore, built by a fake French Count, lived on by American writer Paul Bowles, and now a hotel.

Hundreds of outrigger catamarans float in the expanse of Weligama Bay and dot the sandy beach. At the western end, with islands just offshore, the water in season is miraculously still, calm and as blue as a Sri Lankan sapphire. To the eastern end of the bay the waves roll in to provide great opportunity for surfers. This is where the bulk of guesthouses are situated.

Weligama town is pretty in parts – street to the west, for instance, hide houses decorated with mal lali (an elegant southern wooden fretwork) set amidst lush gardens. There are a handful of Buddhist dagobas and churches to the western part of town. However, the three-metre high megalith carved with a figure popularly thought to be Kustaraja or “Leper King” at Rasamukkanda is what Weligama is historically famed for.

There are several beliefs surrounding the identity of this figure, carved around the 8th or 9th century. Does it represent a leprous Sinhalese king who lived off the village’s coconut milk for three moons to cure his sickness. Or is it an Indian prince who introduced the coconut to the island? Another belief is that it is a Mahayana Bodhisattva (a being who assists all sentient beings achieve Buddhahood).

One famous visitor to Weligama was the German zoologist, Ernst Haeckel, who coined the word ecology but faked scientific evidence. Haeckel spent several weeks in Weligama at the rest-house, still much as it was then, collecting marine specimens.

Mirissa
Five kilometres from Weligama, at the extremity of Weligama Bay, lies the relaxed, picturesque and secluded bay of Mirissa. The beach is considered to be one of the prettiest in Sri Lanka. Once a much sought-after hideaway, the last few years have seen an increase in visitors and some development, though nothing to the extent of spoiling its charm. Formerly a fisheries harbour, Mirissa features a wide stretch of golden sand fringed by palm trees and rolling surf.

To the western end of the bay is a rocky headland. Cabanas can be seen poking through the green sea of trees. Down below, where the waves crash, are restaurants and guesthouses hidden by foliage, until the beach skirts the Matara road and stretches towards the far end at Giragala (“parrot”) Rock. This whole length of bay, though never far from the main road, is particularly tranquil.

Mirissa is great fun for body boarding and surfing. Equipment can be rented from the beachside restaurants and instruction may also be offered. Do be sure to ask where the safest places are to surf and be aware of strong currents. Swimming is good at the eastern end of the bay, on the far side of Girigala Rock, where small reefs provide opportunities for snorkelling. This is also a popular fishing spot. Girigala Rock is a great place to watch the sunset.

A small river runs behind the village of Mirissa. There is as well some forested jungle worth exploring on foot or bicycle. The village has reasonable accommodation, much of it comprising simple chalets or rooms. Beachside cafes and restaurants serve delicious, fresh seafood.

Matara (km south-east of Colombo)
Fathoming the Indian Ocean
Sun, sand and sea. A tropical climate, white sandy beaches and the tempting warmth of the water are, of course, what mainly bring tourists to Sri Lanka. So the Indian Ocean is a key element in the island’s tourism.

Sri Lanka has 1,330km of coastline, where the white or yellowish margin of sand follows the coast often for kilometres, like a narrow gleaming satin ribbon, bending with its multifarious curves and beautiful open bays, and dividing the deep blue waters of the Indian Ocean from the bright green coconut grove.

The Indian Ocean is the world’s third largest. Occupying an area of 73.6 million square kilometres between Africa, Asia, Australia and Antarctica, and amounting to approximately 20% of the earth’s water surface, the Indian Ocean includes the Red Sea, the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal, the Persian Gulf, the Strait of Malacca, and the Mozambique Channel. The Palk Strait between Sri Lanka and India is one of the ocean’s shallowest parts.

The Indian Ocean is affected by the north-east monsoon from December until April and the south-west monsoon from June to October, giving Sri Lanka two tourist seasons, one on the west coast and the other on the east coast. During monsoon time, when visibility is often reduced to 60m, the sea is usually rough. Sometimes the colour of the ocean changes from its recognizable turquoise to a bottle green and navy blue, depending on the intensity of the clouds above. When the sunshine breaks out, azure tones appear as the angry clouds chase over the sea making it a patchwork quilt of colour. In season, though, the sea is bright blue and crystal clear.

A wide coral reef largely surrounds Sri Lanka’s coastline making it ideal for diving. An underwater journey into the Indian Ocean rewards you with glimpses of a totally different world, full of astounding colour and life. Home to a variety of tropical fish and coral reefs, the ocean waters also lay claim to some historic wrecks that offer exploration opportunities. The more laid-back activity of snorkelling is a popular past-time in many southern coastal areas, particularly the Hikkaduwa Marine Sanctuary, and on the east coast around Pigeon Island off Nilaveli, near Trincomalee. Marine life to be seen includes big fish such as barracuda, whale shark, tuna as well as four species of turtle.

The gentle swell of the Indian Ocean waves offer great opportunities for surfing. There are first-class waves in Arugam Bay on the east coast, and along the south coast at Hikkaduwa and Mirissa. However, in other places the calm water of the Indian Ocean just laps onto the sandy shore, such as at Unawatuna, near Galle, and Nilaveli, making them safe for swimming and especially good for families with young children.

Wind-surfing can be enjoyed at many places along the coastline from Negombo to Tangalle. Bentota is the unofficial water-sports capital of the island because aside from its rolling surf and beautiful sandy beaches, it also has a river where beginners can gain experience before heading into the ocean. Trincomalee on the east coast offers a fantastic alternative for wind-surfers when the south-west monsoon brings strong winds and rough seas.

In Negombo and Hikkaduwa, the increasingly popular thrill-seeking sports of wake-boarding and kite-surfing are beginning to take off.

Finally, please remember to respect the Indian Ocean at all times. Always beware of the strong currents that often run parallel to the coast. Newcomers to the island should remember that it is rare to find a lifeguard at the beach in Sri Lanka or any flags indicating safe places for swimming. Less confident swimmers should ask a local for their advice or just test the waters carefully and make sure someone knows you have gone out for a swim or dive.

West Coast Beaches (north to south)
Negombo (35km north of Colombo)
Negombo, “The Village of Honey”, is Sri Lanka’s oldest beach resort, just 6km from Bandaranaike International Airport and therefore popular for stays on arrival or before departure from the island. Famous in the 18th century for the cultivation of some of the best cinnamon in the world, Negombo is now one of the island’s most important fishing ports. The catamaran-type fishing craft, called oruwas, fitted with their large sails, characterize Negombo. On their return from fishing their trademark creamy-brown sails dot the horizon, becoming bigger as they make their way to the shore. You can even arrange to go out in one or, at least inspect its meticulous and clever design

The main tourist resort of Negombo is situated just north of the town. It has a long, often wide, picturesque stretch of sandy bay with numerous attractions both on land and water, and a string of well-established hotels. There is plenty to do apart from swimming and sunbathing as windsurfing, diving, and even kite surfing have become popular sports here.

Negombo is a centre for Roman Catholicism (its nickname is “Little Rome”) and so the town is dominated by beautiful shrines and churches. The biggest is the impressive, candy-coloured church of St Mary’s, built over a period of 50 years from 1874, which exhibits some amazing ceiling paintings.

While each church in Negombo celebrates its own patron saint’s feast day, the small island of Duwa (separated from the southern end of town by the lagoon) stages passion plays at Easter with puppetry and theatre that usually involve the whole village – a great event to witness.

The waterways surrounding Negombo offer the opportunity to explore the area. The Dutch Canal – also called the Hamilton Canal – runs south to Colombo and north to Puttalam. It was designed especially to transport spices such as cinnamon. You can enjoy peaceful boat trips observing local life and appreciating the wildlife as you glide by.

The Negombo Lagoon – a great expanse of water usually visible from your plane window as you land or take off – is famed for the quality of its prawns and crab. It joins the Indian Ocean to the north, and to the south weaves into the estuaries and waterways of the Muthurajawela Marsh – a mangrove-studded wetland 15km south of Negombo that makes for a great excursion.

Mount Lavinia (12km south of Colombo)
Mount Lavinia is a suburb of Colombo that possesses the nearest beach to the city centre, and is therefore especially convenient for those who are confined to Colombo for part or all of their stay. The beach is adjacent to a headland that juts into the Indian Ocean, atop which is the famous colonial-era Mount Lavinia Hotel. Considering its proximity to the hustle and bustle of Colombo the beach is pleasant enough, and enjoys a quiet atmosphere. There are several beachside restaurants and bars. The sea is usually safe for swimming, but can be rough and you need to be wary of the strong undercurrents typical of this coast.

There are two theories as to the origin of the Westernized name. Governor General Sir Thomas Maitland had built a mansion there in 1805 (now part of the Mount Lavinia Hotel) and had fallen in love with a beautiful low caste dancing girl called Lovina, who was discreetly smuggled into the mansion through a tunnel. But perhaps it’s a corruption of an old name, Lihiniyagala – “rock” or “cliff of the birds”.

If you stay in Mount Lavina there are several nearby attractions. The closest is the National Zoological Gardens at Dehiwela, better-known as the Dehiwela Zoo, one of the largest in Southeast Asia. The zoo and its gardens are best experienced early morning as soon as the zoo opens (8am – 6pm everyday). The animals - some 350 species - are naturally more active at this time, going through feeding and cleaning rituals, it is cooler, and the crowds wouldn’t have arrived as yet. Bear in mind the zoo tends to get overcrowded at weekends.

Though the zoo was a pioneer of the open plan concept, this is yet to be implemented throughout the zoo, so bars and cages are still to be found, but enclosures like the lion and gibbon islands are a fascinating place to watch the animals in their simulated surroundings.

The elephant show - which is still a major attraction - has yet to be discontinued, even though it is unnatural and demeaning. However, these days it is preceded by a talk on conservation and human-elephant conflict.

A few kilometres inlaid with a grand extent of 37,400 hectares, stretches Bolgoda Lake. Sri Lanka’s largest natural water basin and greatest freshwater pool. Up to 45 fish species have been identified, five of which are endemic and 160 bird species (mostly migrants and waterfowl) prowl and flit along the lakeshore. The flora biodiversity is equally rich, including aquatic, semi-aquatic and terrestrial plants – grasses, trees and water pants – and, of course, dense mangrove.

Kalutara (42km south of Colombo)
Kalutara is the first town outside the Colombo conurbation as you travel south on the coastal Galle Road. When you approach the town from Colombo the striking dagoba of Gangatilaka Vihara, Kalutara’s dominant landmark, looms as you traverse a bridge that spans Sri Lanka’s fourth largest river, the Kalu Ganga (“black river”) - from which the town gets its name – before it enters the sea.

North of this bridge, all the way to Wadduwa (8km), extends a fine catamaran-scattered beach, often deserted, which is ideal for quick dips and long sunset strolls. There are some top-end resort hotels bordering the beach, but there’s not much of an option for budget travellers.

Kalutara was a vital spice-trading centre for the Portuguese, Dutch and British. Although there are few visible remains of the Dutch fort, the Dutch canals that linked the spice plantations – transformed into rubber estates under the British – are reminders of Kalutara’s colonial past. Furthermore, a tour of Kalutara’s back streets provides glimpses of houses of Dutch origin hidden behind walls and shaded by large trees.

The large dagoba of the Gangatilaka Vihara isn’t old – it was built in the 1960s – but its hollow interior is the only one of its kind in the world. Inside its cavernous interior there is a mini-dagoba surrounded on four sides by golden Buddhas. Around the edge are painted 72 images of the previous births of the Buddha-to-be. The narrow windows below these paintings afford 360-degree panoramic views over the river and into town.

Kalutara is famous for its mangosteens, which are sold when ripe from May to July in stalls along the roadside. And Kalutara is one of the country’s most successful rubber producing districts. Travelling a few kilometres inland from Kalutara reveals the silvery trunks of the rubber trees while a visit to a factory will show you how the latex is made into sheets of rubber.

Kalutara is associated with two remarkable Victorian women. Julia Margaret Cameron, one of the first portrait photographers who pioneered soft focus, was a resident. She began photography in 1863, at 48, yet soon became a central figure in this new medium and had photographed famous personalities such as Charles Darwin. She also took historically important portraits of Kalutara women, which hang at the National Portrait Gallery, London. In 1877, Marianne North, one of the greatest botanical artists, stayed with Cameron. Her paintings, which include a view of the Kalu Ganga from the Cameron’s verandah, can be seen at Kew Gardens, London.

Bentota (62km south of Colombo)
Bentota combines a number of package resorts plus an excellent selection of upmarket hotels and the National Tourist Resort, which comprises a shopping centre, post office and a market. The town has long been a tourist haven, for in the 19th century, when Galle was the island’s main port, those proceeding to Colombo in stagecoaches stopped here at the rest-house (long gone) and indulged in local oysters!

Bentota is Sri Lanka’s water-sports centre. The sea here is calm and an excellent diving location. The beach divides into two, the north end comprising a spit of land – dubbed “Paradise Island” - dividing the waves of the Indian Ocean from the still waters of the Bentota Lagoon, while the more pleasing southern end comprises an attractive swathe of wide sandy beach where some of the island’s best upmarket hotels are located. Surprisingly, although Bentota is one of the island’s most popular resorts, the beach is relatively quiet.

The Bentota Lagoon offers a wide range of water-sports such as wind-surfing, water-skiing, canoeing, banana-boating and deep-sea fishing. In addition, the Bentota Ganga (river) has been an important tourist attraction since the 19th century. Boat safaris up the beautiful river provide an ideal opportunity to observe a variety of fauna – from herons to crocodiles - associated with a wetland environment.

You can also explore the remains of the Galapata Vihara, built in the 12th century, which has interesting wall paintings, Buddha statues, and a large rock that has an extract from the chronicle, the Mahavamsa, carved on it.

About 3km south of Bentota is a turtle hatchery, where eggs bought from fishermen are buried. When they hatch the baby turtles are kept in tanks for a few days before being released into the sea...

Ambalangoda (Approx 85km south of Colombo)
Ambalangoda doesn’t have the beauty of Bentota, or the vibe of Hikkaduwa. But it does have a popular artistic tradition of much interest to tourists. Furthermore, Ambalangoda possesses a long stretch of wild beach you can explore all to yourself, giving you a feeling of seclusion hard to find on this coast.

The beach is, thankfully, a good distance from the main road and packed with catamarans and fishing boats. For this reason the beach in town is not so suitable sunbathing as Hikkaduwa or Unawatuna further south. Instead it is great for exploring and witnessing Sri Lankan daily life.

However, both beaches at the extreme southern and northern ends of town are picturesque, great for walking and nearly always empty, though perhaps a little close to the main road. As a rule, be wary and follow the local advice about where to swim, as there can be dangerous currents.

Ambalangoda is well-known for mask-making and as a centre for south coast traditional dancing. Masks are made for three types of dancing rituals: kolam, which tell satirical stories of traditional Sri Lankan colonial life, sanni, or devil dancing masks, used in an exorcism ceremony to heal people of persisting ailments believed inflicted by demons, and raksha masks, used in festivals and processions. Now they have become more important as one of Sri Lanka’s most sought-after souvenir, and the streets of Ambalangoda are lined with shops from which leer these sometimes demonic-looking but somehow attractive creations.

Seven kilometres inland is south Asia’s longest (35m) reclining Buddha statue, located at the Sailatalaramaya Vihara. At Balapitiya, five kilometres from Ambalangoda, boat trips can be taken up the Madu Ganga (river). This shallow body of water, its estuary and islets, make up the complex coastal ecosystem of the Madu Ganga Wetlands, declared a Ramsar Site in 2003. Possibly the last remaining area of pristine mangrove forest in Sri Lanka, it is home to 303 species of plants and 248 vertebrate animals including many bird species.

The village of Meetiyagoda near Ambalangoda is the only place in Sri Lanka where the gem, the moonstone, is found. You can visit the narrow, deep shafts from which it is mined, or at least gaze down them. Moonstone carries a sheen, seen on the surface of the stone from certain angles. It is like a floating light, the finest of which is bluish in colour.

Hikkaduwa (98km south of Colombo)
There is only one town that can boast of some of the best surfing waves in Sri Lanka, a long stretch of beach packed with restaurants serving fresh seafood, an equally long stretch of souvenir shops for the serious shopper, and guesthouses and hotels galore, from the cheap and cheerful to star-class. The name of the place is Hikkaduwa, and there is no other resort on the island like it.

The foreign influx began in the mid-19th century, when ‘picnic parties’ were regularly held here and it became a stopping place for the Galle to Colombo stagecoach. The second influx came in the 1960s, when American and Australian surfers discovered the waves here and at Arugam Bay on the east coast. Soon the town became a surfing paradise, attracting not only surfers but fun-seeking visitors of all types.

The best period for surfing is November to April, as it is for diving and snorkelling, for the visibility is good. There are a number of excellent wreck dives, including the Shell-owned SS Conch, the world’s first oil tanker, sunk in 1903. The Hikkaduwa Marine Sanctuary, established in 1988, ensures the underwater world is accessible to all whether they can dive or not. Snorkelling in the shallow waters 200m off shore is possible, and although the corals are dead in places you still come across a number of brightly-coloured fish as you float a few metres above. The less adventurous can always take a glass-bottomed boat ride, though this is environmentally questionable.

Clothes are tailored here to western tastes and in western sizes. Jewellery is of the more understated silver type with beautiful semi-precious stones. There are dozens of souvenir shops with items such as masks, puppets, musical instruments, batiks and paintings.

There a several places of interest to visit in the area around Hikkaduwa. The Gangarama Maha Viharaya is filled with the lifetime work of one artist depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha. The Dodanduwa Lagoon and Telwatte Bird Sanctuary provide a wealth of fauna, flora and spectacular scenery. And only 9km inland from Hikkaduwa you are already entering the totally different world of tea plantations.

Unawatuna (140 km south-east of Colombo)
Fathoming the Indian Ocean
Sun, sand and sea. A tropical climate, white sandy beaches and the tempting warmth of the water are, of course, what mainly bring tourists to Sri Lanka. So the Indian Ocean is a key element in the island’s tourism.

Sri Lanka has 1,330km of coastline, where the white or yellowish margin of sand follows the coast often for kilometres, like a narrow gleaming satin ribbon, bending with its multifarious curves and beautiful open bays, and dividing the deep blue waters of the Indian Ocean from the bright green coconut grove.

The Indian Ocean is the world’s third largest. Occupying an area of 73.6 million square kilometres between Africa, Asia, Australia and Antarctica, and amounting to approximately 20% of the earth’s water surface, the Indian Ocean includes the Red Sea, the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal, the Persian Gulf, the Strait of Malacca, and the Mozambique Channel. The Palk Strait between Sri Lanka and India is one of the ocean’s shallowest parts.

The Indian Ocean is affected by the north-east monsoon from December until April and the south-west monsoon from June to October, giving Sri Lanka two tourist seasons, one on the west coast and the other on the east coast. During monsoon time, when visibility is often reduced to 60m, the sea is usually rough. Sometimes the colour of the ocean changes from its recognizable turquoise to a bottle green and navy blue, depending on the intensity of the clouds above. When the sunshine breaks out, azure tones appear as the angry clouds chase over the sea making it a patchwork quilt of colour. In season, though, the sea is bright blue and crystal clear.

A wide coral reef largely surrounds Sri Lanka’s coastline making it ideal for diving. An underwater journey into the Indian Ocean rewards you with glimpses of a totally different world, full of astounding colour and life. Home to a variety of tropical fish and coral reefs, the ocean waters also lay claim to some historic wrecks that offer exploration opportunities. The more laid-back activity of snorkelling is a popular past-time in many southern coastal areas, particularly the Hikkaduwa Marine Sanctuary, and on the east coast around Pigeon Island off Nilaveli, near Trincomalee. Marine life to be seen includes big fish such as barracuda, whale shark, tuna as well as four species of turtle.

The gentle swell of the Indian Ocean waves offer great opportunities for surfing. There are first-class waves in Arugam Bay on the east coast, and along the south coast at Hikkaduwa and Mirissa. However, in other places the calm water of the Indian Ocean just laps onto the sandy shore, such as at Unawatuna, near Galle, and Nilaveli, making them safe for swimming and especially good for families with young children.

Wind-surfing can be enjoyed at many places along the coastline from Negombo to Tangalle. Bentota is the unofficial water-sports capital of the island because aside from its rolling surf and beautiful sandy beaches, it also has a river where beginners can gain experience before heading into the ocean. Trincomalee on the east coast offers a fantastic alternative for wind-surfers when the south-west monsoon brings strong winds and rough seas.

In Negombo and Hikkaduwa, the increasingly popular thrill-seeking sports of wake-boarding and kite-surfing are beginning to take off.

Finally, please remember to respect the Indian Ocean at all times. Always beware of the strong currents that often run parallel to the coast. Newcomers to the island should remember that it is rare to find a lifeguard at the beach in Sri Lanka or any flags indicating safe places for swimming. Less confident swimmers should ask a local for their advice or just test the waters carefully and make sure someone knows you have gone out for a swim or dive.

West Coast Beaches (north to south)
Negombo (35km north of Colombo)
Negombo, “The Village of Honey”, is Sri Lanka’s oldest beach resort, just 6km from Bandaranaike International Airport and therefore popular for stays on arrival or before departure from the island. Famous in the 18th century for the cultivation of some of the best cinnamon in the world, Negombo is now one of the island’s most important fishing ports. The catamaran-type fishing craft, called oruwas, fitted with their large sails, characterize Negombo. On their return from fishing their trademark creamy-brown sails dot the horizon, becoming bigger as they make their way to the shore. You can even arrange to go out in one or, at least inspect its meticulous and clever design

The main tourist resort of Negombo is situated just north of the town. It has a long, often wide, picturesque stretch of sandy bay with numerous attractions both on land and water, and a string of well-established hotels. There is plenty to do apart from swimming and sunbathing as windsurfing, diving, and even kite surfing have become popular sports here.

Negombo is a centre for Roman Catholicism (its nickname is “Little Rome”) and so the town is dominated by beautiful shrines and churches. The biggest is the impressive, candy-coloured church of St Mary’s, built over a period of 50 years from 1874, which exhibits some amazing ceiling paintings.

While each church in Negombo celebrates its own patron saint’s feast day, the small island of Duwa (separated from the southern end of town by the lagoon) stages passion plays at Easter with puppetry and theatre that usually involve the whole village – a great event to witness.

The waterways surrounding Negombo offer the opportunity to explore the area. The Dutch Canal – also called the Hamilton Canal – runs south to Colombo and north to Puttalam. It was designed especially to transport spices such as cinnamon. You can enjoy peaceful boat trips observing local life and appreciating the wildlife as you glide by.

The Negombo Lagoon – a great expanse of water usually visible from your plane window as you land or take off – is famed for the quality of its prawns and crab. It joins the Indian Ocean to the north, and to the south weaves into the estuaries and waterways of the Muthurajawela Marsh – a mangrove-studded wetland 15km south of Negombo that makes for a great excursion.

Mount Lavinia(12km south of Colombo)
Mount Lavinia is a suburb of Colombo that possesses the nearest beach to the city centre, and is therefore especially convenient for those who are confined to Colombo for part or all of their stay. The beach is adjacent to a headland that juts into the Indian Ocean, atop which is the famous colonial-era Mount Lavinia Hotel. Considering its proximity to the hustle and bustle of Colombo the beach is pleasant enough, and enjoys a quiet atmosphere. There are several beachside restaurants and bars. The sea is usually safe for swimming, but can be rough and you need to be wary of the strong undercurrents typical of this coast.

There are two theories as to the origin of the Westernized name. Governor General Sir Thomas Maitland had built a mansion there in 1805 (now part of the Mount Lavinia Hotel) and had fallen in love with a beautiful low caste dancing girl called Lovina, who was discreetly smuggled into the mansion through a tunnel. But perhaps it’s a corruption of an old name, Lihiniyagala – “rock” or “cliff of the birds”.

If you stay in Mount Lavina there are several nearby attractions. The closest is the National Zoological Gardens at Dehiwela, better-known as the Dehiwela Zoo, one of the largest in Southeast Asia. The zoo and its gardens are best experienced early morning as soon as the zoo opens (8am – 6pm everyday). The animals - some 350 species - are naturally more active at this time, going through feeding and cleaning rituals, it is cooler, and the crowds wouldn’t have arrived as yet. Bear in mind the zoo tends to get overcrowded at weekends.

Though the zoo was a pioneer of the open plan concept, this is yet to be implemented throughout the zoo, so bars and cages are still to be found, but enclosures like the lion and gibbon islands are a fascinating place to watch the animals in their simulated surroundings.

The elephant show - which is still a major attraction - has yet to be discontinued, even though it is unnatural and demeaning. However, these days it is preceded by a talk on conservation and human-elephant conflict.

A few kilometres inlaid with a grand extent of 37,400 hectares, stretches Bolgoda Lake. Sri Lanka’s largest natural water basin and greatest freshwater pool. Up to 45 fish species have been identified, five of which are endemic and 160 bird species (mostly migrants and waterfowl) prowl and flit along the lakeshore. The flora biodiversity is equally rich, including aquatic, semi-aquatic and terrestrial plants – grasses, trees and water pants – and, of course, dense mangrove.

Kalutara (42km south of Colombo)
Kalutara is the first town outside the Colombo conurbation as you travel south on the coastal Galle Road. When you approach the town from Colombo the striking dagoba of Gangatilaka Vihara, Kalutara’s dominant landmark, looms as you traverse a bridge that spans Sri Lanka’s fourth largest river, the Kalu Ganga (“black river”) - from which the town gets its name – before it enters the sea.

North of this bridge, all the way to Wadduwa (8km), extends a fine catamaran-scattered beach, often deserted, which is ideal for quick dips and long sunset strolls. There are some top-end resort hotels bordering the beach, but there’s not much of an option for budget travellers.

Kalutara was a vital spice-trading centre for the Portuguese, Dutch and British. Although there are few visible remains of the Dutch fort, the Dutch canals that linked the spice plantations – transformed into rubber estates under the British – are reminders of Kalutara’s colonial past. Furthermore, a tour of Kalutara’s back streets provides glimpses of houses of Dutch origin hidden behind walls and shaded by large trees.

The large dagoba of the Gangatilaka Vihara isn’t old – it was built in the 1960s – but its hollow interior is the only one of its kind in the world. Inside its cavernous interior there is a mini-dagoba surrounded on four sides by golden Buddhas. Around the edge are painted 72 images of the previous births of the Buddha-to-be. The narrow windows below these paintings afford 360-degree panoramic views over the river and into town.

Kalutara is famous for its mangosteens, which are sold when ripe from May to July in stalls along the roadside. And Kalutara is one of the country’s most successful rubber producing districts. Travelling a few kilometres inland from Kalutara reveals the silvery trunks of the rubber trees while a visit to a factory will show you how the latex is made into sheets of rubber.

Kalutara is associated with two remarkable Victorian women. Julia Margaret Cameron, one of the first portrait photographers who pioneered soft focus, was a resident. She began photography in 1863, at 48, yet soon became a central figure in this new medium and had photographed famous personalities such as Charles Darwin. She also took historically important portraits of Kalutara women, which hang at the National Portrait Gallery, London. In 1877, Marianne North, one of the greatest botanical artists, stayed with Cameron. Her paintings, which include a view of the Kalu Ganga from the Cameron’s verandah, can be seen at Kew Gardens, London.

Bentota (62km south of Colombo)
Bentota combines a number of package resorts plus an excellent selection of upmarket hotels and the National Tourist Resort, which comprises a shopping centre, post office and a market. The town has long been a tourist haven, for in the 19th century, when Galle was the island’s main port, those proceeding to Colombo in stagecoaches stopped here at the rest-house (long gone) and indulged in local oysters!

Bentota is Sri Lanka’s water-sports centre. The sea here is calm and an excellent diving location. The beach divides into two, the north end comprising a spit of land – dubbed “Paradise Island” - dividing the waves of the Indian Ocean from the still waters of the Bentota Lagoon, while the more pleasing southern end comprises an attractive swathe of wide sandy beach where some of the island’s best upmarket hotels are located. Surprisingly, although Bentota is one of the island’s most popular resorts, the beach is relatively quiet.

The Bentota Lagoon offers a wide range of water-sports such as wind-surfing, water-skiing, canoeing, banana-boating and deep-sea fishing. In addition, the Bentota Ganga (river) has been an important tourist attraction since the 19th century. Boat safaris up the beautiful river provide an ideal opportunity to observe a variety of fauna – from herons to crocodiles - associated with a wetland environment.

You can also explore the remains of the Galapata Vihara, built in the 12th century, which has interesting wall paintings, Buddha statues, and a large rock that has an extract from the chronicle, the Mahavamsa, carved on it.

About 3km south of Bentota is a turtle hatchery, where eggs bought from fishermen are buried. When they hatch the baby turtles are kept in tanks for a few days before being released into the sea...

Ambalangoda (Approx 85km south of Colombo)
Ambalangoda doesn’t have the beauty of Bentota, or the vibe of Hikkaduwa. But it does have a popular artistic tradition of much interest to tourists. Furthermore, Ambalangoda possesses a long stretch of wild beach you can explore all to yourself, giving you a feeling of seclusion hard to find on this coast.

The beach is, thankfully, a good distance from the main road and packed with catamarans and fishing boats. For this reason the beach in town is not so suitable sunbathing as Hikkaduwa or Unawatuna further south. Instead it is great for exploring and witnessing Sri Lankan daily life.

However, both beaches at the extreme southern and northern ends of town are picturesque, great for walking and nearly always empty, though perhaps a little close to the main road. As a rule, be wary and follow the local advice about where to swim, as there can be dangerous currents.

Ambalangoda is well-known for mask-making and as a centre for south coast traditional dancing. Masks are made for three types of dancing rituals: kolam, which tell satirical stories of traditional Sri Lankan colonial life, sanni, or devil dancing masks, used in an exorcism ceremony to heal people of persisting ailments believed inflicted by demons, and raksha masks, used in festivals and processions. Now they have become more important as one of Sri Lanka’s most sought-after souvenir, and the streets of Ambalangoda are lined with shops from which leer these sometimes demonic-looking but somehow attractive creations.

Seven kilometres inland is south Asia’s longest (35m) reclining Buddha statue, located at the Sailatalaramaya Vihara. At Balapitiya, five kilometres from Ambalangoda, boat trips can be taken up the Madu Ganga (river). This shallow body of water, its estuary and islets, make up the complex coastal ecosystem of the Madu Ganga Wetlands, declared a Ramsar Site in 2003. Possibly the last remaining area of pristine mangrove forest in Sri Lanka, it is home to 303 species of plants and 248 vertebrate animals including many bird species.

The village of Meetiyagoda near Ambalangoda is the only place in Sri Lanka where the gem, the moonstone, is found. You can visit the narrow, deep shafts from which it is mined, or at least gaze down them. Moonstone carries a sheen, seen on the surface of the stone from certain angles. It is like a floating light, the finest of which is bluish in colour.

Hikkaduwa (98km south of Colombo)
There is only one town that can boast of some of the best surfing waves in Sri Lanka, a long stretch of beach packed with restaurants serving fresh seafood, an equally long stretch of souvenir shops for the serious shopper, and guesthouses and hotels galore, from the cheap and cheerful to star-class. The name of the place is Hikkaduwa, and there is no other resort on the island like it.

The foreign influx began in the mid-19th century, when ‘picnic parties’ were regularly held here and it became a stopping place for the Galle to Colombo stagecoach. The second influx came in the 1960s, when American and Australian surfers discovered the waves here and at Arugam Bay on the east coast. Soon the town became a surfing paradise, attracting not only surfers but fun-seeking visitors of all types.

The best period for surfing is November to April, as it is for diving and snorkelling, for the visibility is good. There are a number of excellent wreck dives, including the Shell-owned SS Conch, the world’s first oil tanker, sunk in 1903. The Hikkaduwa Marine Sanctuary, established in 1988, ensures the underwater world is accessible to all whether they can dive or not. Snorkelling in the shallow waters 200m off shore is possible, and although the corals are dead in places you still come across a number of brightly-coloured fish as you float a few metres above. The less adventurous can always take a glass-bottomed boat ride, though this is environmentally questionable.

Clothes are tailored here to western tastes and in western sizes. Jewellery is of the more understated silver type with beautiful semi-precious stones. There are dozens of souvenir shops with items such as masks, puppets, musical instruments, batiks and paintings.

There a several places of interest to visit in the area around Hikkaduwa. The Gangarama Maha Viharaya is filled with the lifetime work of one artist depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha. The Dodanduwa Lagoon and Telwatte Bird Sanctuary provide a wealth of fauna, flora and spectacular scenery. And only 9km inland from Hikkaduwa you are already entering the totally different world of tea plantations.

Unawatuna (140 km south-east of Colombo)
Unawatuna is a fishing village blessed with a beautiful sandy bay fringed with palm trees. Science-fiction author Arthur C Clarke was so enchanted by the “exquisite arc of beach,” that he once made it his second home. To many visitors, Unawatuna is simply Sri Lanka’s best, a view endorsed by the Discovery Channel, which has rated the beach one of the ten best in the world.

Unawatuna is protected by a double reef and is therefore one of the safest beaches in Sri Lanka for swimming. You can snorkel in the clear blue waters of the bay. It is a great place for surfing and diving. Or you can go fishing or snorkelling out to sea by using the traditional catamarans dotting the beach.

Many restaurants line the whole curve of beach with sun beds enticingly placed outside. Because there are no big hotel complexes here, and no busy road, it is a favourite of tourists staying a few months. With welcoming villagers and an unforgettable ambience, it is easy to see why.

A charming legend concerns Unawatuna and the prominence called Rumassala Kanda at the west end of the bay. In the epic Indian poem, the Ramayana, which is partly set in Sri Lanka, Hanuman, the monkey god, was sent to the Himalayas to find some special medicinal herbs. But Hanuman forgot which herbs he needed and in desperation took with him, twisted in his tail, a chunk of the mountains. On his way back he dropped a piece at Unawatuna forming this hillock. That’s why the village name means “fell down”.

Rumassala Kanda, well worth exploring, has a great variety of unusual vegetation and protected medicinal herbs not found anywhere else in the area, making this story seem mysteriously possible.

Unawatuna is the ideal place to relax and unwind. As importantly, however, it is well-placed to allow you to easily explore the surrounding area. For an alternative beach, for instance, try Dalawella, just 2.5km from Unawatuna, which is unspoilt – it’s narrow but great for bathing and safe for children.

At Kottawa Rainforest and Arboretum, only 45 minutes from Unawatuna, you can experience a rainforest environment. Most importantly, the remarkable Dutch fort of Galle - one of Sri Lanka’s seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites and considered the best-preserved fortifications in South Asia - is just 5km north of Unawatuna. And remember that if you are a cricket fan, Galle has an International Cricket Stadium where test matches are played.

Weligama (143km south-east of Colombo)
Weligama possesses an expansive, all-embracing bay that welcomes long frothing rollers which spill onto the barrel-chest of a beach. An afternoon stroll the length of the bay to enjoy the panoramic vista while taking in the buzz of fishing activity is very enjoyable. The eastern end is a strategic place to be at sunset, the place the bay where the waves roll in to provide great opportunity for surfers. This is where the bulk of guesthouses are situated. At the western end, with islands just offshore, the water in season is miraculously still, calm and as blue as a Sri Lankan sapphire.

Weligama means “Sandy Village”, though it is also referred to as ‘Red Bay’ due to its rose-red cliffs. These red cliffs and rose-tinged islands do indeed characterize Weligama and can be viewed as far as the eye can see. Another famous aspect is stunning Taprobane Island, in wading distance from the shore, built by a fake French Count, lived on by American writer Paul Bowles, and now a hotel.

Hundreds of outrigger catamarans float in the expanse of Weligama Bay and dot the sandy beach. At the western end, with islands just offshore, the water in season is miraculously still, calm and as blue as a Sri Lankan sapphire. To the eastern end of the bay the waves roll in to provide great opportunity for surfers. This is where the bulk of guesthouses are situated.

Weligama town is pretty in parts – street to the west, for instance, hide houses decorated with mal lali (an elegant southern wooden fretwork) set amidst lush gardens. There are a handful of Buddhist dagobas and churches to the western part of town. However, the three-metre high megalith carved with a figure popularly thought to be Kustaraja or “Leper King” at Rasamukkanda is what Weligama is historically famed for.

There are several beliefs surrounding the identity of this figure, carved around the 8th or 9th century. Does it represent a leprous Sinhalese king who lived off the village’s coconut milk for three moons to cure his sickness. Or is it an Indian prince who introduced the coconut to the island? Another belief is that it is a Mahayana Bodhisattva (a being who assists all sentient beings achieve Buddhahood).
One famous visitor to Weligama was the German zoologist, Ernst Haeckel, who coined the word ecology but faked scientific evidence. Haeckel spent several weeks in Weligama at the rest-house, still much as it was then, collecting marine specimens.

Mirissa(South-east of Colombo)
Five kilometres from Weligama, at the extremity of Weligama Bay, lies the relaxed, picturesque and secluded bay of Mirissa. The beach is considered to be one of the prettiest in Sri Lanka. Once a much sought-after hideaway, the last few years have seen an increase in visitors and some development, though nothing to the extent of spoiling its charm. Formerly a fisheries harbour, Mirissa features a wide stretch of golden sand fringed by palm trees and rolling surf.

To the western end of the bay is a rocky headland. Cabanas can be seen poking through the green sea of trees. Down below, where the waves crash, are restaurants and guesthouses hidden by foliage, until the beach skirts the Matara road and stretches towards the far end at Giragala (“parrot”) Rock. This whole length of bay, though never far from the main road, is particularly tranquil.

Mirissa is great fun for body boarding and surfing. Equipment can be rented from the beachside restaurants and instruction may also be offered. Do be sure to ask where the safest places are to surf and be aware of strong currents. Swimming is good at the eastern end of the bay, on the far side of Girigala Rock, where small reefs provide opportunities for snorkelling. This is also a popular fishing spot. Girigala Rock is a great place to watch the sunset.

A small river runs behind the village of Mirissa. There is as well some forested jungle worth exploring on foot or bicycle. The village has reasonable accommodation, much of it comprising simple chalets or rooms. Beachside cafes and restaurants serve delicious, fresh seafood.

Matara(South-east of Colombo)
Tangalle(195km south-east of Colombo)

On approaching Tangalle, the first aspect to attract the gaze of the traveller are the intensely blue bays, which once harboured Dutch and British ships. No longer do foreign sailors linger there, but foreign tourists do, for it is considered one of the best bathing places in Sri Lanka. Even tea planters from the hills travel south to laze in the warm waters.

There are not many places on the western and southern coasts where you can walk along superb sandy shores for kilometres hardly seeing another soul. So, if you are looking for a low-key beach destination, then Tangalle is the place to go. As well as housing budget travellers, Tangalle has its fair share of mid-range and exclusive accommodation.

There is little to see in the town, though a few Dutch buildings display characteristics of Dutch architecture such as the courthouse, the island’s oldest rest-house (1774), and the residence of the district judge. The Dutch also built a fort, though it has now been transformed into a prison.

Tangalle encompasses the adjoining villages to the west Goyambokka and Pallikaduwa, and to the north, along the arc of bay, Medaketiya and Medilla. It is Medilla beach and the stretch beyond to Rekawa that’s most enticing. Your feet sink deeply into the fiery sand scattered with shells. There are shelves of rocks and coral in the sea, visible from shore, which create pockets of safe swimming, though it is best to ask nearby guesthouse owners as there can be dangerous currents.

Swimming is safest at Medaketiya, where most of the budget accommodation is located. From here, under overhanging palms, you can stretch out on the beach and relax leaving the time fly by.

However, Tangalle has many worthwhile surrounding attractions. At the Hoo-maniya blowhole, seven kilometres west in Kudawela, jets of water spray 15m into the air through a crevice in the rock. It is best viewed at the height of the monsoon season in June.

There’s the magnificent rock temple of Mulgirigala, although it’s 20km inland, and Wewurukannala Temple a few kilometres beyond Hoo-maniya, home to the tallest (50m) Buddha statue in the country.

Ten kilometres to the east, at Rekawa, is a turtle nesting site run by the Turtle Conservation Project (TCP). TCP pays villagers to protect turtle eggs laid on the beach. November to April and full moon days are the best time to go and watch turtles laying eggs.

East Coast (north to south)
The east coast beaches contrast with the more tourist-frequented west and south coast destinations. Fewer people, less infrastructure and just the simple beauty of the white sands and calm ocean during the “season” is what you get on the east coast. Remember that the “season” on the east coast is the opposite to that of the south west coast – May through to September, though June, July, August are possibly optimum. During the southern monsoon when seas are choppy Trincomalee and the east is in its prime.

Nilaveli & Uppuveli (280 km north-east of Colombo)
The adjacent beaches of Nilaveli and Uppuveli north of Trincomalee, together 6km in length, are the most favoured by visitors to the region. Nilaveli, especially, has one of the finest beaches in Sri Lanka - the expansive stretches of the island’s typical soft white sand are an ideal location for swimming and sunbathing. From here you can hire a boat to take you to nearby Pigeon Island – so-called because it is home to the rare Blue Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) - which is good for diving and snorkelling.

A more attractive alternative is Coral Island, a few kilometres north of Nilaveli, which unlike Pigeon Island cannot be landed on, but which has a well-preserved reef containing the beautiful cabbage coral and a marvellous variety of dazzling tropical fish. Coral Island is considered by many to be Sri Lanka’s best snorkelling spot. However, the water over the reef becomes quite shallow at low tide, so precautions must be taken not only to avoid cuts and scrapes but also ensure no coral – nowadays so vulnerable – is damaged.

The Kanniyai Hot Springs are 8km from Nilaveli. There are seven springs, which are more like wells in a small compound. The water is indeed warm and if large crowds are there it can be a fight to get your hands on the bucket to dip into the well. It is a public mixed bathing area - a sarong, shorts or swimming costume is required. There are several Hindu legends surrounding the creation of the wells. Some believe it was due to Vishnu, others that it was legendary King Ravana of the epic poem Ramayana. Many Sri Lankan pilgrims – regardless of religion –visit the hot springs early in the morning to bathe before proceeding to worship at the Tirukoneswaram kovil in the fort of Trincomalee. It is also believed the waters have therapeutic value especially for those with body aches associated with conditions like arthritis and rheumatism.

Another site of interest is the carefully maintained Commonwealth War Cemetery at Uppuveli. Buried at this memorial are Allied service personnel who lost their lives during the Japanese aerial attack on Trincomalee in April 1942. If the caretaker or his wife is around they will show the register that lists all those buried there, including members of the crew of HMS Hermes, the firat purpose built aircraft carrier that was sunk by Japanese planes north of Batticaloa.

Trincomalee (257km north-east of Colombo)
Trincomalee, or “Trinco” the popular shortened form, has a history extending well beyond its Portuguese, Dutch, British and even French occupations. In ancient times Trincomalee was known as Gokanna and its harbour was recognised very early on as a significant one by the kings of that period.

Almost equally represented in number, communities of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims live in Trincomalee. You will notice the particular characteristics of each group in various parts of the town from the obvious Buddhist temples, Hindu kovils and Islamic mosques to the chosen dress and language of locals. This diversity, together with its history, makes Trinco an absorbing place to spend a few days.

A highlight is Fort Frederick. For an introduction into its colourful history read the plaque on the entrance gate archway – the Portuguese, Dutch, French and British jostled for it from 1623 until 1895, when the British captured it for good.

The fort is still being used by the military, though one can walk through it. Inside it is shady with huge banyan trees providing the comforting canopy. At the top of Fort Frederick is Swami Rock and the Tirukoneswaram Kovil, an ancient Hindu temple. It’s gorgeous location high above the sea - you should visit between a 4.30pm and 6.30pm..

Stand behind the kovil and look over the edge down to the sea some 100m below and watch the colourful fishing boats come in close to the rocks with burning incense on the bow, the fishermen saying a small prayer, some of them smashing a coconut against the rocks for extra blessings.

The original kovil, said to have been built thousands of years BC, was demolished in the early part of the 17th century by the Portuguese who pushed it over the edge of the cliff into the sea. The temple’s focus point for devotion is the phallic symbol for Shiva, the lingam.
Visitors to Trinco are easily enraptured by the region’s quiet beaches that it makes it difficult to think about anything other than lazing in the sand, swimming, water-sports such as diving, or going on a whale-watching expedition. However, as with most places in Sri Lanka, a little exploration can uncover any number of treasures.

For instance, try the magnificent ruins of Velgam Vihara, built around 1st AD, and 13km west of the town. Among the ruins are the remains of a large dagoba and several other structures, including at least two small Buddha statues. The site was declared an archaeological reserve in 1934.

Arugam Bay (315km east of Colombo)
Arugam village is situated in the bay of the same name on one of the nicest stretches of the south east coast with many miles of pristine beaches, It was once occupied by the Dutch as a military post and had a small mud fort. For the past quarter-century, however, it has been seasonally occupied by cosmopolitan surfers attracted by the waves and discerning travellers who appreciate the splendour of its isolation.

The curved sandy bay is wide and long. There are no big hotel complexes towering over the beach, which at many places is lined with a multitude of brightly coloured fishing boats. That there are empty spaces between restaurants and guesthouses is striking when you have been used to seeing how crowded and developed most west and southern coast beach spots are.

During May to October, which is dry season on the east coast, the bay becomes safe for swimming, and best for surfing. There are some beautiful coral reefs and an unbelievable number of tropical fish to be seen in and around the area where the best snorkelling, on a calm day, is on the southern tip of the bay.

There are no dive shops in Arugam Bay but you may be able to organize a tour with qualified PADI instructor in advance. There are some Dutch and Portuguese shipwrecks to explore that are home to a wide variety of marine life.

Of course surfing IS Arugam Bay, and the area offers a variety of right-hand point breaks that delight even the most experienced surfers. Access to surfing spots can be arranged from guesthouses where you will also be able to hire surfboards if you don’t have your own.

Two kilometres from Arugam Bay is the beautiful mangrove ecosystem of the Pottuvil Lagoon. The tour, by traditional outrigger canoe, lasts two hours and lets you get very close to the abundance of wildlife the mangrove has to offer.

There are two national parks close to Arugam Bay. Lahugala is 12km from Pottuvil - you will probably pass through it on your way to Arugam Bay. Here you can see very large herds of elephants at dawn or at sunset. Yala East, 25km away, also contains elephants and some leopards. To the north-east of the park you can visit Kumana Bird Sanctuary.

Near Pottuvil Point in the jungle is the Magul Maha Viharaya, a 2,000-year-old Buddhist temple that was reconstructed in the 14th century and contains ruins that include a palace and a monastery.

Unawatuna is a fishing village blessed with a beautiful sandy bay fringed with palm trees. Science-fiction author Arthur C Clarke was so enchanted by the “exquisite arc of beach,” that he once made it his second home. To many visitors, Unawatuna is simply Sri Lanka’s best, a view endorsed by the Discovery Channel, which has rated the beach one of the ten best in the world.

Unawatuna is protected by a double reef and is therefore one of the safest beaches in Sri Lanka for swimming. You can snorkel in the clear blue waters of the bay. It is a great place for surfing and diving. Or you can go fishing or snorkelling out to sea by using the traditional catamarans dotting the beach.

Many restaurants line the whole curve of beach with sun beds enticingly placed outside. Because there are no big hotel complexes here, and no busy road, it is a favourite of tourists staying a few months. With welcoming villagers and an unforgettable ambience, it is easy to see why.

A charming legend concerns Unawatuna and the prominence called Rumassala Kanda at the west end of the bay. In the epic Indian poem, the Ramayana, which is partly set in Sri Lanka, Hanuman, the monkey god, was sent to the Himalayas to find some special medicinal herbs. But Hanuman forgot which herbs he needed and in desperation took with him, twisted in his tail, a chunk of the mountains. On his way back he dropped a piece at Unawatuna forming this hillock. That’s why the village name means “fell down”.

Rumassala Kanda, well worth exploring, has a great variety of unusual vegetation and protected medicinal herbs not found anywhere else in the area, making this story seem mysteriously possible.

Unawatuna is the ideal place to relax and unwind. As importantly, however, it is well-placed to allow you to easily explore the surrounding area. For an alternative beach, for instance, try Dalawella, just 2.5km from Unawatuna, which is unspoilt – it’s narrow but great for bathing and safe for children.

At Kottawa Rainforest and Arboretum, only 45 minutes from Unawatuna, you can experience a rainforest environment. Most importantly, the remarkable Dutch fort of Galle - one of Sri Lanka’s seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites and considered the best-preserved fortifications in South Asia - is just 5km north of Unawatuna. And remember that if you are a cricket fan, Galle has an International Cricket Stadium where test matches are played.

Weligama (143km south-east of Colombo)
Weligama possesses an expansive, all-embracing bay that welcomes long frothing rollers which spill onto the barrel-chest of a beach. An afternoon stroll the length of the bay to enjoy the panoramic vista while taking in the buzz of fishing activity is very enjoyable. The eastern end is a strategic place to be at sunset, the place the bay where the waves roll in to provide great opportunity for surfers. This is where the bulk of guesthouses are situated. At the western end, with islands just offshore, the water in season is miraculously still, calm and as blue as a Sri Lankan sapphire.

Weligama means “Sandy Village”, though it is also referred to as ‘Red Bay’ due to its rose-red cliffs. These red cliffs and rose-tinged islands do indeed characterize Weligama and can be viewed as far as the eye can see. Another famous aspect is stunning Taprobane Island, in wading distance from the shore, built by a fake French Count, lived on by American writer Paul Bowles, and now a hotel.

Hundreds of outrigger catamarans float in the expanse of Weligama Bay and dot the sandy beach. At the western end, with islands just offshore, the water in season is miraculously still, calm and as blue as a Sri Lankan sapphire. To the eastern end of the bay the waves roll in to provide great opportunity for surfers. This is where the bulk of guesthouses are situated.

Weligama town is pretty in parts – street to the west, for instance, hide houses decorated with mal lali (an elegant southern wooden fretwork) set amidst lush gardens. There are a handful of Buddhist dagobas and churches to the western part of town. However, the three-metre high megalith carved with a figure popularly thought to be Kustaraja or “Leper King” at Rasamukkanda is what Weligama is historically famed for.

There are several beliefs surrounding the identity of this figure, carved around the 8th or 9th century. Does it represent a leprous Sinhalese king who lived off the village’s coconut milk for three moons to cure his sickness. Or is it an Indian prince who introduced the coconut to the island? Another belief is that it is a Mahayana Bodhisattva (a being who assists all sentient beings achieve Buddhahood).

One famous visitor to Weligama was the German zoologist, Ernst Haeckel, who coined the word ecology but faked scientific evidence. Haeckel spent several weeks in Weligama at the rest-house, still much as it was then, collecting marine specimens.

Mirissa ( south-east of Colombo)
Five kilometres from Weligama, at the extremity of Weligama Bay, lies the relaxed, picturesque and secluded bay of Mirissa. The beach is considered to be one of the prettiest in Sri Lanka. Once a much sought-after hideaway, the last few years have seen an increase in visitors and some development, though nothing to the extent of spoiling its charm. Formerly a fisheries harbour, Mirissa features a wide stretch of golden sand fringed by palm trees and rolling surf.

To the western end of the bay is a rocky headland. Cabanas can be seen poking through the green sea of trees. Down below, where the waves crash, are restaurants and guesthouses hidden by foliage, until the beach skirts the Matara road and stretches towards the far end at Giragala (“parrot”) Rock. This whole length of bay, though never far from the main road, is particularly tranquil.

Mirissa is great fun for body boarding and surfing. Equipment can be rented from the beachside restaurants and instruction may also be offered. Do be sure to ask where the safest places are to surf and be aware of strong currents. Swimming is good at the eastern end of the bay, on the far side of Girigala Rock, where small reefs provide opportunities for snorkelling. This is also a popular fishing spot. Girigala Rock is a great place to watch the sunset.

A small river runs behind the village of Mirissa. There is as well some forested jungle worth exploring on foot or bicycle. The village has reasonable accommodation, much of it comprising simple chalets or rooms. Beachside cafes and restaurants serve delicious, fresh seafood.

Matara (south-east of Colombo)
Tangalle (195km south-east of Colombo)
On approaching Tangalle, the first aspect to attract the gaze of the traveller are the intensely blue bays, which once harboured Dutch and British ships. No longer do foreign sailors linger there, but foreign tourists do, for it is considered one of the best bathing places in Sri Lanka. Even tea planters from the hills travel south to laze in the warm waters.

There are not many places on the western and southern coasts where you can walk along superb sandy shores for kilometres hardly seeing another soul. So, if you are looking for a low-key beach destination, then Tangalle is the place to go. As well as housing budget travellers, Tangalle has its fair share of mid-range and exclusive accommodation.

There is little to see in the town, though a few Dutch buildings display characteristics of Dutch architecture such as the courthouse, the island’s oldest rest-house (1774), and the residence of the district judge. The Dutch also built a fort, though it has now been transformed into a prison.

Tangalle encompasses the adjoining villages to the west Goyambokka and Pallikaduwa, and to the north, along the arc of bay, Medaketiya and Medilla. It is Medilla beach and the stretch beyond to Rekawa that’s most enticing. Your feet sink deeply into the fiery sand scattered with shells. There are shelves of rocks and coral in the sea, visible from shore, which create pockets of safe swimming, though it is best to ask nearby guesthouse owners as there can be dangerous currents.

Swimming is safest at Medaketiya, where most of the budget accommodation is located. From here, under overhanging palms, you can stretch out on the beach and relax leaving the time fly by.

However, Tangalle has many worthwhile surrounding attractions. At the Hoo-maniya blowhole, seven kilometres west in Kudawela, jets of water spray 15m into the air through a crevice in the rock. It is best viewed at the height of the monsoon season in June.

There’s the magnificent rock temple of Mulgirigala, although it’s 20km inland, and Wewurukannala Temple a few kilometres beyond Hoo-maniya, home to the tallest (50m) Buddha statue in the country.

Ten kilometres to the east, at Rekawa, is a turtle nesting site run by the Turtle Conservation Project (TCP). TCP pays villagers to protect turtle eggs laid on the beach. November to April and full moon days are the best time to go and watch turtles laying eggs.

East Coast (north to south)
The east coast beaches contrast with the more tourist-frequented west and south coast destinations. Fewer people, less infrastructure and just the simple beauty of the white sands and calm ocean during the “season” is what you get on the east coast. Remember that the “season” on the east coast is the opposite to that of the south west coast – May through to September, though June, July, August are possibly optimum. During the southern monsoon when seas are choppy Trincomalee and the east is in its prime.

Nilaveli & Uppuveli (280 km north-east of Colombo)
The adjacent beaches of Nilaveli and Uppuveli north of Trincomalee, together 6km in length, are the most favoured by visitors to the region. Nilaveli, especially, has one of the finest beaches in Sri Lanka - the expansive stretches of the island’s typical soft white sand are an ideal location for swimming and sunbathing. From here you can hire a boat to take you to nearby Pigeon Island – so-called because it is home to the rare Blue Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) - which is good for diving and snorkelling.

A more attractive alternative is Coral Island, a few kilometres north of Nilaveli, which unlike Pigeon Island cannot be landed on, but which has a well-preserved reef containing the beautiful cabbage coral and a marvellous variety of dazzling tropical fish. Coral Island is considered by many to be Sri Lanka’s best snorkelling spot. However, the water over the reef becomes quite shallow at low tide, so precautions must be taken not only to avoid cuts and scrapes but also ensure no coral – nowadays so vulnerable – is damaged.

The Kanniyai Hot Springs are 8km from Nilaveli. There are seven springs, which are more like wells in a small compound. The water is indeed warm and if large crowds are there it can be a fight to get your hands on the bucket to dip into the well. It is a public mixed bathing area - a sarong, shorts or swimming costume is required. There are several Hindu legends surrounding the creation of the wells. Some believe it was due to Vishnu, others that it was legendary King Ravana of the epic poem Ramayana. Many Sri Lankan pilgrims – regardless of religion –visit the hot springs early in the morning to bathe before proceeding to worship at the Tirukoneswaram kovil in the fort of Trincomalee. It is also believed the waters have therapeutic value especially for those with body aches associated with conditions like arthritis and rheumatism.

Another site of interest is the carefully maintained Commonwealth War Cemetery at Uppuveli. Buried at this memorial are Allied service personnel who lost their lives during the Japanese aerial attack on Trincomalee in April 1942. If the caretaker or his wife is around they will show the register that lists all those buried there, including members of the crew of HMS Hermes, the firat purpose built aircraft carrier that was sunk by Japanese planes north of Batticaloa.

Trincomalee (257km north-east of Colombo)
Trincomalee, or “Trinco” the popular shortened form, has a history extending well beyond its Portuguese, Dutch, British and even French occupations. In ancient times Trincomalee was known as Gokanna and its harbour was recognised very early on as a significant one by the kings of that period.

Almost equally represented in number, communities of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims live in Trincomalee. You will notice the particular characteristics of each group in various parts of the town from the obvious Buddhist temples, Hindu kovils and Islamic mosques to the chosen dress and language of locals. This diversity, together with its history, makes Trinco an absorbing place to spend a few days.

A highlight is Fort Frederick. For an introduction into its colourful history read the plaque on the entrance gate archway – the Portuguese, Dutch, French and British jostled for it from 1623 until 1895, when the British captured it for good.

The fort is still being used by the military, though one can walk through it. Inside it is shady with huge banyan trees providing the comforting canopy. At the top of Fort Frederick is Swami Rock and the Tirukoneswaram Kovil, an ancient Hindu temple. It’s gorgeous location high above the sea - you should visit between a 4.30pm and 6.30pm..

Stand behind the kovil and look over the edge down to the sea some 100m below and watch the colourful fishing boats come in close to the rocks with burning incense on the bow, the fishermen saying a small prayer, some of them smashing a coconut against the rocks for extra blessings.

The original kovil, said to have been built thousands of years BC, was demolished in the early part of the 17th century by the Portuguese who pushed it over the edge of the cliff into the sea. The temple’s focus point for devotion is the phallic symbol for Shiva, the lingam.

Visitors to Trinco are easily enraptured by the region’s quiet beaches that it makes it difficult to think about anything other than lazing in the sand, swimming, water-sports such as diving, or going on a whale-watching expedition. However, as with most places in Sri Lanka, a little exploration can uncover any number of treasures.

For instance, try the magnificent ruins of Velgam Vihara, built around 1st AD, and 13km west of the town. Among the ruins are the remains of a large dagoba and several other structures, including at least two small Buddha statues. The site was declared an archaeological reserve in 1934.

Arugam Bay (315km east of Colombo)
Arugam village is situated in the bay of the same name on one of the nicest stretches of the south east coast with many miles of pristine beaches, It was once occupied by the Dutch as a military post and had a small mud fort. For the past quarter-century, however, it has been seasonally occupied by cosmopolitan surfers attracted by the waves and discerning travellers who appreciate the splendour of its isolation.

The curved sandy bay is wide and long. There are no big hotel complexes towering over the beach, which at many places is lined with a multitude of brightly coloured fishing boats. That there are empty spaces between restaurants and guesthouses is striking when you have been used to seeing how crowded and developed most west and southern coast beach spots are.

During May to October, which is dry season on the east coast, the bay becomes safe for swimming, and best for surfing. There are some beautiful coral reefs and an unbelievable number of tropical fish to be seen in and around the area where the best snorkelling, on a calm day, is on the southern tip of the bay.

There are no dive shops in Arugam Bay but you may be able to organize a tour with qualified PADI instructor in advance. There are some Dutch and Portuguese shipwrecks to explore that are home to a wide variety of marine life.

Of course surfing IS Arugam Bay, and the area offers a variety of right-hand point breaks that delight even the most experienced surfers. Access to surfing spots can be arranged from guesthouses where you will also be able to hire surfboards if you don’t have your own.

Two kilometres from Arugam Bay is the beautiful mangrove ecosystem of the Pottuvil Lagoon. The tour, by traditional outrigger canoe, lasts two hours and lets you get very close to the abundance of wildlife the mangrove has to offer.

There are two national parks close to Arugam Bay. Lahugala is 12km from Pottuvil - you will probably pass through it on your way to Arugam Bay. Here you can see very large herds of elephants at dawn or at sunset. Yala East, 25km away, also contains elephants and some leopards. To the north-east of the park you can visit Kumana Bird Sanctuary.

Near Pottuvil Point in the jungle is the Magul Maha Viharaya, a 2,000-year-old Buddhist temple that was reconstructed in the 14th century and contains ruins that include a palace and a monastery.

Tangalle (195km south-east of Colombo)
On approaching Tangalle, the first aspect to attract the gaze of the traveller are the intensely blue bays, which once harboured Dutch and British ships. No longer do foreign sailors linger there, but foreign tourists do, for it is considered one of the best bathing places in Sri Lanka. Even tea planters from the hills travel south to laze in the warm waters.

There are not many places on the western and southern coasts where you can walk along superb sandy shores for kilometres hardly seeing another soul. So, if you are looking for a low-key beach destination, then Tangalle is the place to go. As well as housing budget travellers, Tangalle has its fair share of mid-range and exclusive accommodation.

There is little to see in the town, though a few Dutch buildings display characteristics of Dutch architecture such as the courthouse, the island’s oldest rest-house (1774), and the residence of the district judge. The Dutch also built a fort, though it has now been transformed into a prison.

Tangalle encompasses the adjoining villages to the west Goyambokka and Pallikaduwa, and to the north, along the arc of bay, Medaketiya and Medilla. It is Medilla beach and the stretch beyond to Rekawa that’s most enticing. Your feet sink deeply into the fiery sand scattered with shells. There are shelves of rocks and coral in the sea, visible from shore, which create pockets of safe swimming, though it is best to ask nearby guesthouse owners as there can be dangerous currents.

Swimming is safest at Medaketiya, where most of the budget accommodation is located. From here, under overhanging palms, you can stretch out on the beach and relax leaving the time fly by.

However, Tangalle has many worthwhile surrounding attractions. At the Hoo-maniya blowhole, seven kilometres west in Kudawela, jets of water spray 15m into the air through a crevice in the rock. It is best viewed at the height of the monsoon season in June.

There’s the magnificent rock temple of Mulgirigala, although it’s 20km inland, and Wewurukannala Temple a few kilometres beyond Hoo-maniya, home to the tallest (50m) Buddha statue in the country

Ten kilometres to the east, at Rekawa, is a turtle nesting site run by the Turtle Conservation Project (TCP). TCP pays villagers to protect turtle eggs laid on the beach. November to April and full moon days are the best time to go and watch turtles laying eggs.

East Coast (north to south)
The east coast beaches contrast with the more tourist-frequented west and south coast destinations. Fewer people, less infrastructure and just the simple beauty of the white sands and calm ocean during the “season” is what you get on the east coast. Remember that the “season” on the east coast is the opposite to that of the south west coast – May through to September, though June, July, August are possibly optimum. During the southern monsoon when seas are choppy Trincomalee and the east is in its prime.

Nilaveli & Uppuveli (280 km north-east of Colombo)
The adjacent beaches of Nilaveli and Uppuveli north of Trincomalee, together 6km in length, are the most favoured by visitors to the region. Nilaveli, especially, has one of the finest beaches in Sri Lanka - the expansive stretches of the island’s typical soft white sand are an ideal location for swimming and sunbathing. From here you can hire a boat to take you to nearby Pigeon Island – so-called because it is home to the rare Blue Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) - which is good for diving and snorkelling.

A more attractive alternative is Coral Island, a few kilometres north of Nilaveli, which unlike Pigeon Island cannot be landed on, but which has a well-preserved reef containing the beautiful cabbage coral and a marvellous variety of dazzling tropical fish. Coral Island is considered by many to be Sri Lanka’s best snorkelling spot. However, the water over the reef becomes quite shallow at low tide, so precautions must be taken not only to avoid cuts and scrapes but also ensure no coral – nowadays so vulnerable – is damaged.

The Kanniyai Hot Springs are 8km from Nilaveli. There are seven springs, which are more like wells in a small compound. The water is indeed warm and if large crowds are there it can be a fight to get your hands on the bucket to dip into the well. It is a public mixed bathing area - a sarong, shorts or swimming costume is required. There are several Hindu legends surrounding the creation of the wells. Some believe it was due to Vishnu, others that it was legendary King Ravana of the epic poem Ramayana. Many Sri Lankan pilgrims – regardless of religion –visit the hot springs early in the morning to bathe before proceeding to worship at the Tirukoneswaram kovil in the fort of Trincomalee. It is also believed the waters have therapeutic value especially for those with body aches associated with conditions like arthritis and rheumatism.

Another site of interest is the carefully maintained Commonwealth War Cemetery at Uppuveli. Buried at this memorial are Allied service personnel who lost their lives during the Japanese aerial attack on Trincomalee in April 1942. If the caretaker or his wife is around they will show the register that lists all those buried there, including members of the crew of HMS Hermes, the firat purpose built aircraft carrier that was sunk by Japanese planes north of Batticaloa.

Trincomalee (257km north-east of Colombo)
Trincomalee, or “Trinco” the popular shortened form, has a history extending well beyond its Portuguese, Dutch, British and even French occupations. In ancient times Trincomalee was known as Gokanna and its harbour was recognised very early on as a significant one by the kings of that period.

Almost equally represented in number, communities of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims live in Trincomalee. You will notice the particular characteristics of each group in various parts of the town from the obvious Buddhist temples, Hindu kovils and Islamic mosques to the chosen dress and language of locals. This diversity, together with its history, makes Trinco an absorbing place to spend a few days.

A highlight is Fort Frederick. For an introduction into its colourful history read the plaque on the entrance gate archway – the Portuguese, Dutch, French and British jostled for it from 1623 until 1895, when the British captured it for good.

The fort is still being used by the military, though one can walk through it. Inside it is shady with huge banyan trees providing the comforting canopy. At the top of Fort Frederick is Swami Rock and the Tirukoneswaram Kovil, an ancient Hindu temple. It’s gorgeous location high above the sea - you should visit between a 4.30pm and 6.30pm..

Stand behind the kovil and look over the edge down to the sea some 100m below and watch the colourful fishing boats come in close to the rocks with burning incense on the bow, the fishermen saying a small prayer, some of them smashing a coconut against the rocks for extra blessings.

The original kovil, said to have been built thousands of years BC, was demolished in the early part of the 17th century by the Portuguese who pushed it over the edge of the cliff into the sea. The temple’s focus point for devotion is the phallic symbol for Shiva, the lingam.

Visitors to Trinco are easily enraptured by the region’s quiet beaches that it makes it difficult to think about anything other than lazing in the sand, swimming, water-sports such as diving, or going on a whale-watching expedition. However, as with most places in Sri Lanka, a little exploration can uncover any number of treasures.

For instance, try the magnificent ruins of Velgam Vihara, built around 1st AD, and 13km west of the town. Among the ruins are the remains of a large dagoba and several other structures, including at least two small Buddha statues. The site was declared an archaeological reserve in 1934.

Arugam Bay (315km east of Colombo)
Arugam village is situated in the bay of the same name on one of the nicest stretches of the south east coast with many miles of pristine beaches, It was once occupied by the Dutch as a military post and had a small mud fort. For the past quarter-century, however, it has been seasonally occupied by cosmopolitan surfers attracted by the waves and discerning travellers who appreciate the splendour of its isolation.

The curved sandy bay is wide and long. There are no big hotel complexes towering over the beach, which at many places is lined with a multitude of brightly coloured fishing boats. That there are empty spaces between restaurants and guesthouses is striking when you have been used to seeing how crowded and developed most west and southern coast beach spots are.

During May to October, which is dry season on the east coast, the bay becomes safe for swimming, and best for surfing. There are some beautiful coral reefs and an unbelievable number of tropical fish to be seen in and around the area where the best snorkelling, on a calm day, is on the southern tip of the bay.

There are no dive shops in Arugam Bay but you may be able to organize a tour with qualified PADI instructor in advance. There are some Dutch and Portuguese shipwrecks to explore that are home to a wide variety of marine life.

Of course surfing IS Arugam Bay, and the area offers a variety of right-hand point breaks that delight even the most experienced surfers. Access to surfing spots can be arranged from guesthouses where you will also be able to hire surfboards if you don’t have your own.

Two kilometres from Arugam Bay is the beautiful mangrove ecosystem of the Pottuvil Lagoon. The tour, by traditional outrigger canoe, lasts two hours and lets you get very close to the abundance of wildlife the mangrove has to offer.

There are two national parks close to Arugam Bay. Lahugala is 12km from Pottuvil - you will probably pass through it on your way to Arugam Bay. Here you can see very large herds of elephants at dawn or at sunset. Yala East, 25km away, also contains elephants and some leopards. To the north-east of the park you can visit Kumana Bird Sanctuary.

Near Pottuvil Point in the jungle is the Magul Maha Viharaya, a 2,000-year-old Buddhist temple that was reconstructed in the 14th century and contains ruins that include a palace and a monastery.